Cantiks.com – Wardah Aloe Hydramild Moisturizer Cream Ingredients
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract,
Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters,
|Cetearyl Alcohol||emollient, viscosity controlling, emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing||
|Glycerin||skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant||
|Isopropyl Myristate||emollient, perfuming||
|Glyceryl Stearate||emollient, emulsifying||
|PEG-100 Stearate||surfactant/cleansing, emulsifying||
|Propylene Glycol||moisturizer/humectant, solvent, viscosity controlling||
|Titanium Dioxide||sunscreen, colorant||goodie|
|Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract||soothing, emollient, moisturizer/humectant||goodie|
|PEG-20 Stearate||emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing, moisturizer/humectant||
|Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters||emollient, emulsifying|
|Triethylene Glycol||perfuming, viscosity controlling|
Wardah Aloevera Moisturizer
Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
It’s mainly a
solvent for ingredients
that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside – putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
An extremely common
ingredient that gives your skin a
nice soft feel
gives body to creams
and lotions. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%.
It’s a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. alcohol. Fatty alcohols have a long oil-soluble (and thus emollient) tail part that makes them absolutely non-drying and non-irritating and are totally ok for the skin.
Probably themost common silicone
of all. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thick liquid.
As for skincare, it makes the skin
silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a
(aka occlusive). Also, works well to
fill in fine lines
and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it’s nice). There are also
gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity.
As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it andsmoothes the hair like no other thing. Depending on your hair type, it can bea bit difficult to wash out
and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types).
- A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
- A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
- Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
- Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot)
- High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>
A clear, colorless oil-like liquid that
makes the skin feel smooth and nice
(aka emollient) and it does so without it being greasy.
What’s more, it can evenreduce the heavy, greasy feel
in products with high oil content. It’s also fast-spreading meaning that it gives the formula a good, nice slip. Itabsorbs quickly
into the skin and helps other ingredients to penetrate quicker and deeper.
Thanks to all this, it’s one of the most commonly used emollients out there. There is just one little drawback: it has a high comedogenic index (5 out of 5…), so it
might clog pores if you’re prone to it.
A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that
helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth.
Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fatty acid molecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, “green” process that is similar to soap making. It’s readily biodegradable.
It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. As cosmetic chemist Colins writes it, “its safety really is beyond any doubt”.
We don’t have description for this ingredient yet.
A very common
water-loving surfactant and emulsifier
that helps to keep water and oil mixed nicely together.
It’s often paired with glyceryl stearate – the two together form a super effective emulsifier duo that’s salt and acid tolerant and works over a wide pH range. It also gives a “pleasing product aesthetics”, so no wonder it’s popular.
It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s
safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben.
It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. It can be found in nature – in green tea – but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic.
Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85°C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10).
It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol.
- It’s a helper ingredient that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products
- It’s also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer
- It has a bad reputation among natural cosmetics advocates but cosmetic scientists and toxicology experts do not agree (read more in the geeky details section)
Read all the geeky details about Propylene Glycol here >>
Titanium Dioxide is
one of the two members of the elite sunscreen group called physical sunscreens
(or inorganic sunscreens if you’re a science geek and want to be precise).
Traditionally, UV-filters are categorized as either chemical or physical. The big difference is supposed to be that chemical agents absorb UV-light while physical agents reflect it like a bunch of mini umbrellas on top of the skin. While this categorization is easy and logical it turns out it’s not true. A recent, 2016 study shows that inorganic sunscreens work mostly by absorption, just like chemical filters, and only a little bit by reflection (they do reflect the light in the visible spectrum, but mostly absorb in the UV spectrum).
Anyway, it doesn’t matter if it reflects or absorbs, Titanium Dioxide is a pretty awesome sunscreen agent for two main reasons: it
gives a nice broad spectrum coverage and it’s highly stable. Its protection is very good between 290 – 350 nm (UVB and UVA II range), and less good at 350-400 nm (UVA I) range. Regular sized Titanium Dioxide also has a
great safety profile, it’s non-irritating and is pretty much free from any health concerns (like estrogenic effect worries with some chemical filters).
of Titanium Dioxide is that it’s
not cosmetically elegant, meaning it’s a white, “unspreadable” mess. Sunscreens containingTitanium Dioxide are often hard to spread on the skin and they leave a disturbing
whitish tint. The cosmetic industry is, of course, really trying to solve this problem and the best solution so far is using
nanoparticles. The itsy-bitsy Nano-sized particles improve both spreadability and reduce the whitish tint a lot, but unfortunately, it also introduces new health concerns.
The main concern with nanoparticles is that they are so tiny that they are absorbed into the skin more than we want them (ideally sunscreen should remain on the surface of the skin). Once absorbed they might form unwanted complexes with proteins and they might promote the formation of evil free radicals. But do not panic, these are concerns under investigation. A 2009 review article about the safety of nanoparticles summarizes this, “to date, in-vivo and in-vitro studies have not demonstrated percutaneous penetration of nanosized particles in titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sunscreens”. The English translation is, so far it looks like
sunscreens with nanoparticles do stay on the surface of the skin where they should be.
All in all, Titanium Dioxide is a famous sunscreen agent and for good reason, it gives broad spectrum UV protection (best at UVB and UVA II), it’s highly stable, and it has a good safety profile. It’s definitely
one of the best UV-filter agents we have today, especially in the US where new-generation Tinosorb filters are not (yet) approved.
Exactly what it sounds:
nice smelling stuff
put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice.
Fragrance in the US and
in the EU
on the ingredient list that is
made up of 30 to 50 chemicals
on average (but it can have as much as 200 components!).
If you are someone who likes to know what you put on your face then fragrance is not your best friend – there’s no way to know what’s really in it.
Also, if your skin is sensitive, fragrance is again not your best friend. It’s the
number one cause of contact allergy
to cosmetics. It’s definitely a smart thing to avoid with sensitive skin (and fragrance of any type – natural is just as allergic as synthetic, if not worse!).
We don’t have description for this ingredient yet.
oil-derived, water-soluble, but “oily” liquid
that works both as an
(makes skin nice and smooth) and as a
It’s claimed to offer a distinctive skin smoothness and long-term moisturizing effects while also being great at solubilizing fragrances into water-based products or being a co-emulsifier in oil-in-water emulsions.
We don’t have description for this ingredient yet.
It’s one of those things that
help your cosmetics not to go wrong too soon, aka a preservative. It’s not a strong one and doesn’t really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. To do that it has to break down to its active form, sorbic acid. For that to happen, there has to be water in the product and the right pH value (pH 3-4).
But even if everything is right, it’s
not enough on its own. If you see potassium sorbate you should see some other preservative next to it too.
BTW, it’s also a food preservative and even has an E number, E202.
A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka
preservative. It works mainly against fungi.
It’s pH dependent and works best at acidic pH levels (3-5). It’s not strong enough to be used in itself so it’s always combined with something else, often with potassium sorbate.
Normal (well kind of – it’s purified and deionized) water. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. [more]
A super common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams. [more]
A very common silicone that gives both skin and hair a silky smooth feel. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. Also used for scar treatment. [more]
A real oldie but a goodie. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. [more]
A clear, colorless oil-like liquid that’s used as a fast-spreading, non-greasy emollient. [more]
Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. [more]
A commonly used water-soluble surfactant and emulsifier. [more]
Pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. [more]
A common glycol that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products. It’s also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer. [more]
A physical/inorganic sunscreen with pretty broad spectrum (UVB and UVA II, less good at UVA I) protection and good stability. Might leave some whitish tint on the skin, though. [more]
The generic term for nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. It is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average. [more]
An olive oil-derived, water-soluble, but “oily” liquid that works both as an emollient (makes skin nice and smooth) and as a co-emulsifier. [more]
A not so strong preservative that doesn’t really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. [more]
A preservative that works mainly against fungi. Has to be combined with other preservatives. [more]